Ten days after Myanmar’s military recaptured Kyaukme, the town in Shan State remains eerily quiet. Schools have reopened, but the once-bustling market is mostly empty, and vendors shut their stalls at the sight of visiting journalists.

An AP reporter, allowed to enter under military supervision—the only foreign media access permitted—saw extensive damage. Official buildings, including the courthouse, police station, and government housing, were burned, and much of the area around the hospital was destroyed, forcing operations to relocate temporarily to a nearby Chinese temple. Civilian homes were largely intact, though most of the town’s 46,000 residents had fled.

The Ta’ang National Liberation Army (TNLA), which previously controlled Kyaukme, accused the army of destruction via airstrikes and heavy weapons, while military forces blamed the militia for damage during their retreat.

Kyaukme, strategically located on the highway connecting central Myanmar to China, has been fiercely contested. Captured by the TNLA in August 2024, it fell back to the military government on Oct. 1 after three weeks of fighting—a major victory ahead of elections later this year, which critics say will neither be free nor fair.

The route to Kyaukme from nearby towns shows buildings damaged by bombs and gunfire. Army checkpoints are stationed every 500–1,000 meters, and unexploded ordnance, including mortar shells, remains in some areas. Authorities have blocked journalists from entering parts of the town deemed unsafe.

Locals say only a small fraction of residents have returned, fearing proximity to the front line, with TNLA forces reported just 32 kilometers away. Many fled during the fighting last year, while those who remained did so out of necessity. A motorbike taxi driver said residents are unlikely to return until surrounding towns are secured.

Kyaukme’s destruction reflects the broader devastation of Myanmar’s ongoing civil war, as both the military and ethnic militias continue to vie for territory.